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To grow aquatic plants using Led Grow lights
We guess many have heard about the wonders of the hydroponic world, the variety of systems, high productivity, high tech gadgets and, of course, the high quality associated with these types of development.
So hydroponic development includes your plants in a flooded environment that is flooded by nutrient solutions now and then. Its system usually consists of a pot or a pot, a reservoir, a large environment, a pump and a complete set of nutrients for your plants. They work in abiotic or (non-exhaustive) environments where your roots are kept to a degree separate from the reservoir filled with nutrients pumped continuously onto the tree trays and behind. that back to the reservoir. So, before we delve into the basics of growing plants in water, we should first look at some of the pros and cons of planting with hydroponic systems
Higher output and higher efficiency (as compared to biotech in developer).
Fewer pests are caused by the use of abiotic land, usually without pesticides.
Opportunity to control your plant environment.
Choose between a variety of systems and set up to suit your needs better.
Higher energy consumption
Requires some knowledge, not suitable for first-time growers with no development experience
Everything happens faster, this is naturally an advantage but it can also come back after all the pests, deficiencies and types of stress happen more quickly.
Higher running and buying costs of the device.
Your plants lose their smell and taste when compared to biological development.
Choose your Hydroponic system
Choosing and operating your hydroponic system is important because of the cost involved with this type of system, your expertise in marijuana growing, knowing the current systems, the size you need and the level They will run as one of your main concerns so the following are the types of hydroponic systems available:
NFT systems (nutrient membrane technique)
In an NFT system, the plants are kept in a tray directly above the reservoir, a pump feeding the nutrient solution into the tray while the water falls into the tank at the other end, while an air pump Continuously oxidizing the solution in the tank. Mills sit on a slab of limestone cut to match the length and width of the NFT tray, some plastic pots of the NFT (plastic basin filled with holes), they are often filled with muddy clay because they can The stem is very good and does not tend to run through the net.
EBB & Flow (flood and discharge)
The EBB & Flow system is easy to recognize because of its depth, the culture medium is kept directly on the pump at a constant pump speed until the average flood and nutrients flow down along the roots into the tube. Discharge back to the tank. These systems are usually flat to water to all the trees. This setup requires less than one NFT pump, sometimes the water only pumps three times a day.
DWC (deep water system)
The DWC system works by suspending the root crops directly on a highly oxidized nutrient solution inside a larger jar that is very simple and highly effective as one of the systems. The highest yield hydroponic. This system produces a large root directly from the nutrient solution. They are a good choice for new growers in water plants because they are easy to assemble and easy to operate.
Small irrigation system
The drip irrigation system works quite similarly to the drainage system and except for the distribution of slower nutrients through drip lines that reduce nutrients in and out of the reservoir throughout the container. Irrigation systems use separate containers from the plants to ensure that each of them has the right amount of nutrients.
The wick system is probably one of the most basic hydroponic systems since it relies on a simple wick (or wick) to absorb nutrients from the reservoir, setting it up very simply and probably as an in the best DIY hydroponics! It consists of a reservoir of nutrients being oxidized through an air pump, and on top of the reservoir the plants are placed, the bottom being drilled before you add the waterproofing environment and the wand is Placed inside passes through the cut hole into the nutrient reservoir. With this system, it is quite difficult to control the feeding
This is another very good DIY hydroponic system, including having a nutrient solution kept on the vegetable container, nutrients that will go down to the plants that should be in a sloppy container for the water to flow down the container. and the clues at the other end into a reservoir captured under a vegetable container. When the pot of higher nutrients will be empty and the pot is full you just need to swap them! Some of these systems use pumps to nourish nutrients back to the original reservoir.
Automatic pot and hand pot
This pot is only used for one plant, in each pot, a pump delivers these nutrients to the bottom of the pot until they reach the roots or are fed by hand. In these types of systems, the roots of the plants drink as much as possible until they are exposed and then many nutrients are pumped into the pot. These types of systems are very suitable for growing shrubs but they require a lot of monitoring to ensure they do not dry out for a long time.
Now we have mentioned that hydroponic systems have one completely different one although it is not considered a hydroponic system per se but it is a hydroponic environment and therefore it is not an organism grows well although it is treated like one! This is probably the best system for newcomers to plant trees in the water to familiarize themselves with the tricks of growing plants in water. That method will be the development of coco-coir! Instead of using regular biological land, you use this medium which is basically the same as normal soil but because it is not biologically it should be treated as a hydroponic environment, so pH, EC, and food must be hydroponic, not one biological. But we will learn more about it later in the section of this article.
Now since indoor tree systems are used indoors it means that you will be responsible for providing your plants with the ideal conditions they need to grow into a beautiful crop with buds. strong. Engage in it, this basically means you have to play “god”. Your job is to grow the environment that best suits your needs as if it is being planted in nature so you have to supply it with oxygen and carbon dioxide, PH, temperature, humidity, wind, light, soil and nutrients. These will be slightly different from stress and stress but there are some rules that apply to every factory.
Ventilation for your big room
First, we will talk about ventilation for large rooms or boxes which in my opinion is one of the most important aspects of in-house development. Being here will help you adjust the humidity in the air, oxygen, carbon dioxide and if you have a proper climate to grow the cannabis it will also regulate your temperature. For example, in a development box, I want a complete air con converter for a minute, meaning if I have a growing box with a square meter (3’x3 ‘), 2 meters high, I Make sure my ventilator will be able to push and pull at least 120 cubic meters of air to and from the development box. That means you need a vacuum cleaner, and another machine to keep the air out, so the air intake should be lower so the air is fresh, so it’s closer to the ground, and one The other should be placed higher to expel the hot air out of the development box. This will help you control the high temperature produced by your lights inside that tiny space if the outside air is hot and then use the hoses for your lamps so they do not produce side heat. in your development box.
If you have large rooms, the same rule applies with the exception of air-conditioning only 12 to 15 per hour (minimum once per 5 minutes). Be sure to use activated carbon filters to hide the smell and have unwanted attention to your growth. You should use a dehumidifier to control air humidity as needed as well as a heater. To recreate the fan in your growing distance, this will keep plants and air moving, avoiding the formation of hot spots and also enhancing your crop structure by keeping them sprouting constantly. Force against the air created by them.
Lighting ” Led Grow Lights”
Lighting is an important aspect as it is one of the responsibilities for your food plant along with the nutrients! As you probably know, the tiny pigments known as chlorophyll responsible for photosynthesis will allow your plant to capture the light energy that converts it into chemical energy that will be used. Used to transform the nutrients captured by the roots into organic tissue while emitting oxygen into the air. We will solve the problem of light first.
So for light, you should use high intensity (HID) flashlights such as metal halide (MH) and high-pressure sodium (HPS) lights, CFLs, but we Only talk about the HIDs since then are those mostly used by growers around the globe. Now you should understand that everything from the power of your lamp to the color range and wavelength, as well as brightness, will have different effects on your crop. First, we need to understand that there is no better light source than sunlight and therefore, the lamp will not be as strong as the sun nor can it reproduce as a light source so we must consider the following aspects. The power of the bulb, measured in watts, will have a direct impact on brightness, measured in lumens,
Area of HID-2’x2 ‘250W
Area HID – 3’x3 400W
600W HID – 3.5 ‘x 3.5’ area
Area 1000W HID – 4 ‘x 4’
Now, knowing this, we still have to talk about the effect of light color or correlated color temperature (CCT), measured in Kelvin, in your crop. You should have this in consideration when choosing a bulb or bulb for a developer! A bulb that has a CCT of 3000K it is considered to be a warm bulb, one that has 4000K a neutral bulb and one that has 6000K is cooler. Their color will not be different because it will also promote different growth stages in the following ways:
From 5000K to 8000K it shows a dark blue light and will encourage the growth of leaves and stalks.
From 4000K to 5000K will show a light blue color and it will encourage the growth of leaves and stalks.
4000K bulbs will give neutral white and it will promote normal development
From 3700K to 4000K the bulb will have warm neutral colors and it will promote rapid development.
From 3700K to 3000K the color of the expression will be warmer yellow, which will stimulate active photosynthesis for all stages of development.
And from 3000K to 1500K it will have a hot orange or red color that will promote flowering.
For feeding the nutrients, you should consider the following aspects to consider, the strain you are developing (it can be a heavily loaded machine or low food), the type of soil you are using as it There may be a low nutrient retention rate or a higher one and you should use this aspect in your favor depending on the type of stretch you are using. The other thing we need to know is what these nutrients are and how they are distributed. So, we have three types of nutrients, macronutrients or major nutrients, including Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (NPK) that you’ve found in the soil. Secondary supplements include Magnesium (Mg Calcium (Ca) and Sulfur (S), also part of the macronutrients can also be found in soil but not enough, and micronutrients including iron (Fe), boron (B)
Now these nutrients will have some different rates and concentrations in different stages of the plant and they will also vary depending on the type and environment you are using. They should be fed in the following proportion
N, P, K are the basic nutrients, so they need to be fed regularly according to your watering schedule.
Ca, Mg, S are secondary supplements, so they should be taken once a week.
Fe, B, Cl, Mn, Cu, Zn, Co, Mo are micronutrients and they should be fed only once every two weeks
In addition to the nutrients there are other things that you should have to consider that will increase your hydroponic quality of growing up and they are:
Fulvic and humic acids.
Bacteria for the root system
Vitamin B and other beneficial vitamins.
When preparing the solution, you will eat your plants with you so keep an eye on both EC & PH’s solutions! Why? Well basically because PH will determine the rate of nutrient absorption of your plant, ie at different levels of PH your plant will absorb certain or worst nutrients but the price Reference values for water-based systems ranged from 5.7 to 6.2, which is 5.8 most used. You can also adjust your PH levels to increase or decrease if there are specific nutrients you need for the plant to absorb to correct for deficiency or something else. You should check out a catalog of hydroponic steaming. Nutrient intake to know the basic values of PH for optimal absorption of each nutrient!
On the other hand, EC (Conductivity) will measure the amount of food your plants consume, which will vary from 0.6 to 1.5 and they will vary each week depending on the strain you are using. You should contact the seed bank for the best EC rates throughout the different stages of your crop. By measuring your flow of water, you will be able to adjust the EC level to the desired level by adding more nutrients or cutting off in case of overeating. Using water that has been filtered through the reverse osmosis system will make your EC water level drop to zero meaning that you can replenish water with nutrients until you reach the desired EC.
Garden maintenance and training
Now it is time to go to the last topic, maintenance and training of the garden, involving a few different techniques that you need to take note to maximize your productivity. These techniques are LST (low-stress training), stress training of the HST and development of settings. Now LST consists of using the top of the cannabis to produce more colas and thus have more shoots. Overwhelming means that your main crop is higher than the second branch and always tries to grow closer to the light source as possible. By having a major branch, the plant will distribute more nutrients to the industry than the secondary crops that produce less. This happens due to the fact that the other branches will be far away from the light and therefore will not be able to enjoy the sweet spot when it comes to the distance between the branches and the source of light (somewhere about 40cm, 30cm if you’re using a Cooltube) where the factory gets 100% of the light generated by the shade